The Complete Guide to Authentic Native American Jewelry

Shopping for Native American jewelry is about more than just finding a beautiful piece to add to your outfit. The history, craftsmanship, and meaning in every piece sets Native American jewelry apart. From a subtle and classy pair of studs to a detailed statement necklace that draws the eye, every piece tells a story.

If you’re shopping for a gorgeous, traditional look or want to add to your Native American jewelry collection, you want to make sure what you’re buying is authentic. The more you learn about the materials, styles, histories, and cultures behind these stunning pieces, the easier it is to invest in something worthwhile. Discover everything you need to know about the legacy behind our collections with this complete guide to authentic Native American jewelry.

More Than an Accessory

Today, we tend to see jewelry as an object of aesthetics. The accessories we wear are for decoration; they complement outfits, draw attention, and help us show off of our personality everywhere we go.

While personal adornment has always been part of jewelry, Native American jewelry goes beyond that. Traditionally used for ceremonies, religious practices, trade, and other key elements of daily life, the value of Native American jewelry goes beyond the weight of the piece or the carat size of the stones. Instead, it’s priced the same way art is; weighing factors such as the quality of the craftsmanship, the artist’s training and history, the symbolism of the piece, and how much work it took all influence the value of the piece.

That’s what authentic Native American jewelry is: art. Every piece is an encapsulation of rich culture, stories and symbols, and histories and techniques passed down from generation to generation. When you buy a piece of Native American jewelry, you are engaging with a living story—one that ties into a legacy greater than any individual piece or artist.

Turquoise Is a Classic Stone

Though many materials and techniques go into Native American jewelry making, turquoise is by far the most iconic. Indigenous peoples in New Mexico and Arizona had been using and trading turquoise for centuries by the time Spanish conquerors arrived in the 16th century. They would wear the stone on its own as beads, or in earrings or necklaces. Other pieces also combine turquoise with wood, shell, or bone backings to create beautiful mosaics.

Part of turquoise's value lies in the brilliant array of colors it can present. Environmental elements affect each individual stone’s color. Aluminum in the ground results in a green hue, while zinc creates more of a yellow-green. Turquoise mined closer to the surface, where it gets exposure from the sun and other elements, lightens the stone for a brighter, more iconic blue.

These colors are also intertwined with the meaning and symbolism of turquoise in Native American cultures. The blue-green colors are associated with water and the sky, and they’re tied to creation, security, and beauty. Many cultures see turquoise as a symbol of health, strength, protection, and bountiful harvests.

Silversmithing in Native American Jewelry

Silver is also a quintessential element in Native American jewelry. Native American silversmithing began in the 1850s when Atsidi Sani, a Navajo blacksmith, learned the skill from a Mexican silversmith. Native American artisans would melt down coins and pesos to create their silver, which they then stamped into concho belts, silver cuffs, and other simple designs.

The craft grew and spread over the decades, eventually reaching Zuni artisans, who started setting turquoise and other stones in silver. This was the time when Native American jewelry grew more popular beyond the tribes, largely thanks to trading posts and other attractions showcasing Native American culture to eastern railroad tourists. This rise in popularity helped turn silver and turquoise pieces into the classic look traditional Native American jewelry buyers know today.

Types of Pieces

Native American jewelry is as diverse as the people who make it. There are types of pieces that are synonymous with the history of the Old West, such as bolo ties and belt buckles. Others are more universal, such as necklaces, earrings, and rings. No matter what kind of piece you’re looking for, though, all have the eye-catching style and one-of-a-kind story that reflects the Native American artisans who made them.

Bolo Ties

Bolo ties date back to the 1930s, where Zuni, Hopi, and Navajo peoples used them as a way to secure the bandanas they wore around their necks. What started as simple string became more intricate as artisans started using hollowed bone, stone beads, or shell to hold the string together, bringing both fashion and function to the look. Today, collectors can find both modern and vintage bolo ties featuring stunning turquoise and extravagant silverwork.

Buckles

Decorative buckles first gained popularity in the European military and came to North America by way of Spanish conquerers. Native American artisans took inspiration from the look and created their own buckles showcasing breathtaking stonework and silversmithing. Authentic Native American belt buckles offer more than just style; they are a canvas for cultural symbolism, stories, and values.

Bracelets and Cuffs

There are many styles of bracelets among Native American jewelry collections, but the cuff is among the most popular. Cuff bracelets started as purely practical; early Native American peoples would wear leather cuffs around their wrists to protect their skin from the snap of a bowstring when shooting.

Over time, these cuffs transformed into beautiful accessories. Some would display personal status or wealth, while others showcased spiritual meanings, tribal histories, or artistic talent.

Navajo Jewelry

Authentic Native American jewelry reflects the culture, history, and values of the tribe that made it. Understanding the unique styles and techniques of a tribe can help you identify where a piece comes from and how it was made.

Navajo artisans are best known for their silverwork. Hand-stamping and traditional sand casting are both popular techniques that create unique designs in Navajo bolo ties, cuffs, necklaces, and more.

Navajo jewelry also takes inspiration from the Spaniards who came to their land in the early 1800s. Some influence is noticeable in pieces fashioned after Spanish horse bridles, for example, the Naja pendant.

The squash blossom is also a traditional Navajo symbol. The design often features three distinct parts: the plain round beads, the squash blossoms that adorn the plain round beads, and the Naja pendant. The squash blossom is a symbol of protection, abundance, and fertility.

Zuni Jewelry

Zuni artisans are known for their needlepoint or petit point designs, which consist of clusters of small stones. Needlepoint pieces feature straight and thin stones that are pointed on each end, while petit point uses stones shaped like teardrops.

Fetish carvings portraying animal spirits are also a significant part of Zuni culture. Some individuals carry fetishes as individual pieces on their person or incorporate them in their jewelry, such as in necklaces. Some necklaces are often multi-strand and feature beautiful, hand-carved, polished animals spaced out by shells.

Add to Your Collection

The more you know about authentic Native American jewelry, the easier—and more meaningful—it is to find a piece that inspires you. Discover the rich stories behind these pieces at John Henry, a Native American jewelry store showcasing collections of rings, necklaces, cuffs, earrings, bolos, and so much more. Let our legacy be part of your story when you shop our stunning, hand-crafted, authentic Native American jewelry today.